This is a quick and easy project that should only take you one evening to do. I needed some studio monitor stands for my JBL LSR305 so I can have a correct tweeter height for listening at my desk. I had some scrap trim board laying around from a project that I could use for the stands.

What you’ll need:
Miter Saw (Linked to a good miter saw if you don’t have one)
Table Saw (Linked to a good table saw if you don’t have one. If you have a sliding miter saw that can work too.)
Orbital Sander
1”x6” 8’ Finger-Joint trim board (you can use any 1”x6” 8’ board, I just had this laying around. Be careful of fence board because they’re usually very green and will cup and bow on you after they dry out)
Wood Glue

Budget Speaker Stands Plans
DeWALT Miter Saw and Delta Table Saw

I made some simple plans I made in AutoDesk Fusion 360 (If you’re looking for a free CAD/3D Design program I suggest this one highly). These are specifically for JBL LSR305 monitors. Here’s a link to the .PDF if you want this use these plans.

If you’re like me & never have enough room to work on projects you’ll probably be cutting your boards out in your yard. I pulled out the old DeWALT miter saw & Delta table saw (I need a new table saw). I will always suggest DeWALT & Makita for tools, usually whatever they make is always good. Though if you have a shop & have room for a proper table saw check out this Ridgid shop table saw, it’s a good value.

Marking Boards With Swanson Speed Square

Start marking up your boards for your bevel cuts, make sure you cut you bevels correctly or they can end up with the wrong length! If you do the 45s correctly you’ll be done in no time. If you don’t have one of these tools in the picture already go pick one up. They’re called speed squares and they make life a lot easier, I’m using a Swanson Speed Square which you can get here.

Marking Speaker Stand Boards For Cutting

Now that you got all your easy bevels done you can rip down the board on the table saw. Rip them down with a 45 bevel to your desired height, the height I want for my speaker stands is 4.5”. The 1”x6” 8’ Finger-Joint trim is 5.5” dimensionally so you have 5.5” to work with if you need a different height than me. If you want a different height then set that saw to that desired height & rip them down. If you have a sliding miter saw you can use that with a 45 bevel to rip these down if you don’t have a table saw, it can be quite sketchy with a small piece on a sliding miter so do this on your own accord.

Budget Speaker Stand Boards Cut

Get the walls of your stand all glued up. I used a poor man’s corner ratchet system (If you want a proper ratchet system you can get one here) with some Titebond wood glue. I primed the end grain with glue and got everything together (I suggest always priming wood end grain because it will drink up more wood glue than the face grain). You won’t need any nails for this project, you’ll be surprised how strong wood glue is. Lots of tests will show that wood will break at its weakest point before the glue will break or tear out with these cheap softwoods.

Gluing Budget Speakers Stands Together

Now that our glue has dried up enough to work on it (Give it a few hours) you can start sanding (Hey! You better be sanding with the grain direction!) it smooth & radius the corners. Since I use trim board I need to sand the primer off, this can be a pain in the ass if they have a lot of primer on them. Once you have everything sanded (I suggest going 60 > 120 > 220 grit) you can choose to stain or seal the wood. I used some MinWax Pre-conditioner for this soft wood to try and combat blotching, I really suggest you do this or your stain might look like shit (Shake the can well too). Soft wood usually suck up the conditioner so you don’t have to worry about wiping off excess, so just wipe some on and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. I used MinWax Jacobean stain (A favorite of mine) for this project, Jacobean is similar to Dark Walnut (Remember to shake up your stain!). Wipe on the stain in the direction of the grain and let it sit for 15 minutes since we pre-conditioned the wood (The longer the wait the darker the outcome). Come back in 10-15 minutes and wipe off excess stain & let the stands air out outside for a day (Don’t put this in your house for drying out).

I’m not going to seal these with a polyurethane but if I was I would do a wipe-on poly for a nice satin visual (I’m not a fan of super glossy wood). You can buy this premade or make some with existing polyurethane and mineral spirits mixed 50/50. Well, this it for this project I hope you enjoyed the article and & make your own stands! If you make something share it with us on Instagram @Scrapeddd_Official

Tools & products used:
Miter Saw (Mine not sold anymore)
Table Saw (Mine not sold anymore)
Orbital Sander
Swanson Speed Square
Cambuckle Straps
Wood Glue
MinWax Wood Pre-conditioner
MinWax Jacobean Stain
Sand Paper

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